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Madelaine Bullwinkel Blog 24 April 2020

STAY-AT-HOME WHITE BEAN, ROSEMARY AND RED PEPPER GRATIN

Yesterday our governor ordered Illinois citizens to shelter-in-place until the end of May. Another five weeks of eating your own cooking can be good news if you are ready to expand your repertoire. Who knows, we may find ourselves homebound again. We’d better be ready with recipes!

To that end, I’m taking my own advice and testing dishes I’ve cooked from scratch with their equivalent in shelf-stable ingredients. It’s a challenge I confronted years ago when asked to teach recipes using USDA donated canned goods at the Greater Chicago Food Depository. I will begin now as I did then with a key ingredient in my pantry and assemble jars of items that are complementary.

Everyone who has recycled leftovers with grated cheese and breadcrumbs has made what the French call a gratin. Layering the ingredients and toasting the breadcrumbs gives it a 'gourmet' look. When shopping for processed foods, select those containing five or fewer ingredients and less than 10% sodium. All you have to do is read the label.

I chose to make this gratin with cannellini beans as my key ingredient. These large, creamy beans come in handy as a base for a soup, stew or salad when I don’t have time to soak dry beans overnight and cook them in advance. The fresh rosemary and bottled chili peppers in this gratin were inspired by a recipe in The Basque Kitchen by San Francisco chef Gerald Hirigoyen. (I have to confess a fascination with the courageous and independent Basque people. In the 16th century Basque sailors rowed up the Atlantic coastline from Northern Spain to Iceland, Canada and into America waters. They arrived before Columbus, not as colonists, but as commercial whalers and cod fishermen. One of their sayings is, “To know how to eat is to know enough.”)

Do you believe in serendipity? The morning I began this post, blog reader Catherine Damme sent me a link to a recipe from the Washington Post for No-Knead Olive Oil Bread. How could she know it is the perfect bread to serve with this gratin? No-Knead Focaccia will be the subject of my next post.

WHITE BEAN, RED PEPPERS AND ROSEMARY GRATIN

Ingredients for 8 servings:

26 ounces canned or boxed cannellini beans

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon dried

2 tablespoons vegetable broth or water

1 teaspoon sea salt

4 ounces chopped red peppers (piquillo peppers or Hatch chilis)

4 ounces feta cheese, sliced

3 tablespoons Panko crumbs, toasted

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

2 tablespoons freshly minced parsley

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees. Lightly oil a 2 1/2 cup gratin dish.

Drain, rinse and puree the beans in a food processor or blender. Add olive oil, rosemary and vegetable broth or water, and run the machine another 15 seconds. Season to taste with salt.

Spread 1/3 of the bean mixture in a even layer over the bottom of the gratin dish. Spread half the pepper pieces on the bean puree. Repeat these two layers and end with a layer of beans. Lay the thin cheese slices over the beans.

Toast the Panko crumbs in a dry, non-stick skillet until they are a light brown. Scatter the crumbs and white pepper over the surface of the gratin. Bake for 15 minutes, until the surface is browned and crisp. Scatter on the parsley and serve with No-Knead Olive Oil Bread. (to follow)

Madelaine Bullwinkel Blog 13 August 2018

STRIKING GOLD WITH TURMERIC

Spiced Crème Brulée

Successive bottles of golden turmeric powder have graced my spice rack over the years. Each was used only on occasions when a curry recipe called for its earthy aroma and brilliant color. Every year or so the old bottle was replaced by a new one. I have faithfully waited and hoped for the day when this intriguing plant would enter my white bread world.

Turmeric is a thickened underground stem that looks like a bloated caterpillar, much like its cousin ginger root. Under a brown paper-thin skin is copper colored flesh that surprises the uninitiated by staining everything it touches with a brilliant yellow dye. Turmeric has also been a home remedy, like aspirin, in the Asian subcontinent for centuries.

A chance encounter with turmeric's healing properties finally drew me into its orbit. I sampled a tincture of turmeric mixed with a little water at a farmers' market while vacationing in Scottsdale last year. To my surprise, the nagging pains in my joints disappeared in minutes. I have since learned that the curcumin compound in turmeric was responsible for my amazingly rapid relief. In a concentrated form, turmeric enters the bloodstream immediately, acts to repair damaged cells, blocks inflammation and, in effect, slows the aging process.

Since the 1920's, Americans have been sold enriched foods like Wonder bread with the promise that it would "build strong bodies 12 ways". Only in the past two decades have we finally proven that large scale food production destroys more nutrients than it replaces with manufactured vitamins. Our current mantra to consume fresh "superfoods" reflects our awareness of the micronutrients in natural foods. What's stopping Big Pharma from making these new micronutrients their next drug frontier? Nothing, they already have.

Nonetheless, it came as a shock to see a bottle of cinnamon pills in the vitamin section of my local supermarket the other day. Cassia cinnamon and turmeric are now being sold together as well as separately as antioxidants and anti-inflammatories. I mixed them in equal parts and was amazed by the aromatic harmony of warm, sweet cinnamon and cool, earthy turmeric. Why not use them together in cooking?

Braised Baby Potatoes with Coconut Kale and Seared Sea Scallops

Freshly ground black pepper makes this combo work more effectively as a seasoning and nutrient. Much of the nutritional benefit of turmeric is lost because it metabolizes quickly in the gut. It isn’t easily absorbable either. Peperine acts to slow the body's metabolism allowing curcumin to remain available longer and improving absorption. Again, almost as if by design, peperine's heat on the tongue and its fresh pine aroma complements the combined aroma of turmeric and cinnamon. Voila!

So, why do I prefer to cook with these spices when popping them in pill form is so much easier and avoids having to wash dishes? Aside from the sensuous pleasure of inhaling their intoxicating scent, I have the satisfaction of knowing they are real. The dietary supplement business has been unregulated since the enactment of the 1994 Dietary Supplement Health and Education Act, A study this year found that 80% of the turmeric supplements were within 20% of their stated amounts. The less expensive brands probably contain a new cheaper petroleum-based synthetic curcumin that lacks helper compounds. In summary, there is no assurance you are getting what you see on the bottle label.

This spice mix - 2 parts each turmeric and cinnamon powder; 1 part ground black pepper; 1/2 part sea salt - is my “wellness” grade seasoning. I’ve stirred it into olive oil and brushed it on eggplant slices and carrots before roasting; beaten it into eggs for an omelette, blended it into coconut milk to braise baby white potatoes and replaced vanilla with it in crème caramel. Am I afraid of an overdose? When dealing in teaspoons with spices whose active ingredients constitute at most 7% of their weight, it’s hard to consume too much.

One nagging question remains. Why has it taken Western medicine so long to appreciate the 5000 year old healing traditions of India, China and our own native Americans? That is a subject for another blog.

Madelaine Bullwinkel Blog 29 June 2021

SUGAR FREE CHERRY GALETTE

An elderly cherry tree in the front yard produced a bumper crop of dark, sweet fruit this year. By mid-June heavily laden branches pummeled the top of my car demanding to be picked as I drove beneath them . A highly motivated team of locals went to work picking, pitting and eating their fill. As we harvested, dreams of cold cherry soup, cherry liqueur and cherry pie danced in our heads. I came up with a Sugar Free Cherry Jam Galette just for you.

Unlike most fruit preserves, this cherry jam is naturally sweet. The choice of a fruit sweetener requires a bit of improvisation which I welcome. All three editions of my preserving cookbook contain a small No Sugar Jam chapter. Although I’ve updated other chapters, this one hasn’t changed since 1984 when Gourmet Preserves Chez Madelaine was published. (It's current title is Artisanal Preserves) What the French call a ‘relook’ is long overdue.

The main innovation in my new sugar free jams is the addition of Medjool dates. This ancient fruit from Morocco wasn’t on my radar forty years ago, but it makes an ideal silent partner in several ways. Dates are overwhelmingly sweet but neutral in flavor. Their high fiber content makes them an ideal thickener. Despite their sweetness dates, have a low glycemic index so they are healthful as well. Apples both diced and as a frozen juice concentrate are the other naturally sweet ingredient in these jams. Best of all, small batch, sugar free jams take under 30 minutes to prepare.

It takes willpower to resist eating homemade jam straight out of a jar, but wait! This cherry jam deserves to be framed in a buttery pastry crust. Scatter on a few raw, chopped cherries before placing the galette in the oven and sprinkle on crushed pistachios before serving. Enjoy!

A cherry picker's view of the harvest

Madelaine Bullwinkel Blog 25 March 2014

SUGAR'S DARK SECRET

Caramel1

This will sound like heresy, but I find sugar, the white granular kind, really boring. It's in our nature to crave sweetness as babies, but it turns into a life-long addiction to the ‘hard stuff’ that makes our teeth itch and worse.

Don’t get me wrong. I’m not ready to ''unfriend” sugar completely. I choose instead to cultivate its best delicious but hidden 'dark side'

That's why the letter "C" in my ABC's of French sauces is Sauce Caramel. When cooked to a rich amber, sugar develops an agreeable bitter flavor that complements its naturally bland sweetness. Caramelized sugar also releases tantalizing flavors of roasted nuts and even a hint of smoke.

Caramel3

On its way to the dark side, cooking sugar becomes extremely hot, so a few simple precautions are required. The first is to add a small amount of water, two tablespoons or so, before you heat the pan. The second is to avoid stirring the hot sugar syrup. Swirl the pan as it nears the simmer, and watch as the granules of sugar dissolve and the syrup becomes clear. If you stir, the hot syrup will adhere to the utensil and crystalize around it. You will get well and truly stuck.

Sugar begrudgingly releases water of crystallization in the form of foamy bubbles as it cooks. Cover the pan for a minute or two so the evaporating water will wash down the spatters of sugar along the inner sides of the pan. Uncover the pan and watch the thickened syrup's bubbles become smaller and more densely packed. Stay with the unfolding drama - don't take your eyes off the pan to check your phone!

Caramel2

Once the caramel color begins to emerges. usually at the edges of the pan, it darkens quickly. Get ready to take the pan off the heat as it reaches the darkness you desire. Add butter immediately to stop the cooking process. Stir it in, and then gradually add cream. Place the pan back on a low heat and stir until the sauce is smooth. Voila!

Sauce Caramel has a long shelf life in the refrigerator. It's high sugar and low water contents keep bacteria at bay. Reheating it for a minute in the microwave at half-power will warm it enough to pour and restore its unctuous texture.

And what can't you do with Sauce Caramel? It's great on ice cream, with baked apples and pears, drizzled over cakes and pies - especially anything chocolate. A thin dessert crepe topped with caramel ice cream, caramel sauce and toasted almonds is one of our family's favorite treats.

Caramel4

Are you ready for a revolutionary idea? Replace granulated sugar with its caramelized form! The French call this praline. You can make it by simply adding whole almonds to hot caramelizing sugar instead of butter and cream. Pour the hot syrup and nut mixture onto an buttered surface and break it into pieces after it cools and hardens.

I've gotten into the habit of substituting coarsely chopped praline pieces for roasted almonds and sugar in biscotti. But why stop there? Go ahead and replace that pale white granular stuff with praline powder in pie fillings, custards, buttercream, cookies, granola, muffins. You too will soon be won over to the 'dark side' of sugar.

Caramel 5

RECIPE LINKS: SAUCE CARAMEL; PRALINE BISCOTTI: DESSERT CREPES

Recipes: Sauce Caramel, Crepes Sucree, Praline, Praline Biscotti

Madelaine Bullwinkel Blog 27 July 2022

SUMMER FRITTATAS

Onion, Kale and Andouille Frittata with Spicy Salad Microgreens

The frittata is an especially satisfying dish to prepare in summer when the addition of locally grown vegetables and herbs heighten its renown as an easy, healthy and inexpensive meal. The Italians may own the name, frittata, but its origin story is shared with the Spanish tortilla, Persian kuku sabzi and the French omelette, to name just a few. You might as well call the one you make whatever you like.

There are no required ingredients for a frittata other than eggs. It is easy to customize its thickness and control the time it takes to cook by adjusting the size of the skillet in relation to the quantity of ingredients. A frittata is delicious served hot or at room temperature any time of day or night. It makes a welcome leftover reheated in the microwave. What's not to like?

Frittata Mis en Place

On a recent evening, I prepared a frittata that featured kale and herbs (dill, basil, parsley) from my garden. I added a few pieces of andouille sausage, a sliver of jalapeño pepper, one-fourth cup grated Parmesan and half a yellow onion from the refrigerator. In a separate bowl, I thoroughly blended two large eggs, two whites and one-quarter cup cool water. My pantry staples included a clove of garlic, olive oil, sea salt and pepper.

I first rinsed the kale, removed the thick center rib, rolled and sliced the leaves. Next I peeled and sliced the onion, then finely chopped the garlic and pepper. The herbs, finely minced, were stirred into the eggs along with salt and several turns of the black pepper grinder. Once all the ingredients were prepped, I fired up the heat under a nine inch stainless steel pan. It was showtime.

I let a thin layer of olive oil get very hot in the pan before I added the sliced onions. I turned down the heat and, let them cook, soften and turn translucent. After three minutes, I added the kale strips, scattered on some salt and stirred as they wilted. The andouille pieces went in next, and, a minute later, I cleared the center of the pan, added a splash of oil and dropped in the garlic and chili pieces. They sizzled as I stirred them for thirty seconds before mixing them in with the rest of the vegetables.

The garlic and chili pieces make their entry.

It was then time to pour in the eggs and shake the pan to distribute the thick liquid evenly among the vegetables. Given the large size of the pan and the relatively small number of eggs, this frittata cooked through in about a minute, or so it seemed. I sprinkled on the Parmesan cheese and briefly brown the surface under a broiler. I used a flexible spatula to gently free the frittata it from the bottom of the skillet and slid it onto my plate. Voila!

A frittata invites spontaneity and freedom from a written recipe. You respond to your senses and stay completely attuned to the process. This pleasure is addictive. I anticipate the addition of homegrown tomatoes and basil-rich pistou to my August frittatas. The tomato pieces will go into the skillet after the garlic. I will cover the pan and cook them slowly for five minutes so they soften and render their juices before I add the eggs that have been enriched with at least two tablespoons of pistou. I can hardly wait.