Blog reader Bonnie Rabert wrote to thank me for posting a steady stream of recipes during the recent lockdown. They inspired her to sort through the favorites she compiled during career as a food stylist in Chicago. I asked if she would send me a few to share with my readers, and she did.
Among Bonnie’s “rediscovered” recipes was one that teased my memory. It was a Crab Cakes with Jalapeño Crema from chef Jackie Shen, a name from the past that I couldn’t quite place. Thanks to Google, I did not have to agonize very long.
Jackie Shen came to the States from Hong Kong to study at the age of eighteen and rose to celebrity status on the Chicago food scene in the 90’s. Her namesake restaurant in Lincoln Park introduced the city to French/Asian fusion cuisine. Her best known creation, however, was a dessert, the chocolate bag, made by painting the inside of a popcorn bag with dark chocolate. The bag was filled with white chocolate mousse and garnished with fresh berries. When asked, Jackie claimed the idea came to her after watching a Julia Child program.
Jackie’s crab cakes and their crema turned out to be as delicious a combination as I’d hoped. I used half lump crabmeat and half backfin to keep costs down. The results were just as successful when I substituted a pound of canned wild salmon for crab My modifications to the recipe were minor. I dissolved the dry mustard in a tablespoon of water before adding it to allow its flavor to develop. I also replaced breadcrumbs with Panko. By the way, the jalapeño crema makes an excellent base for salad dressing and a condiment spread on sandwiches. That is, if there is any left over.
In 2012 Jackie ‘retired’ to New Buffalo, MI where she has opened Jackie’s Cafe for breakfast and lunch. Thanks to Bonnie, I’ve rediscovered Jackie and am curious to know how her new career running a place where the locals can gather. She’s one of those remarkable cooks whose cuisine makes you want to move next door. Anyone up for a field trip to New Buffalo?
CHEF JACKIE SHEN'S CRAB CAKES
2 eggs, beaten
¾ cup mayonnaise
½ teaspoon finely chopped garlic
½ teaspoon dry mustard
½ teaspoon cayenne
1 pound lump crabmeat, drained, sprinkled with lemon juice and broken into small pieces
¼ cup finely diced red pepper
¼ cup finely diced yellow pepper
2 green onions, white and light green, finely chopped
¾ to 1 cup dry bread crumbs
Mix eggs and mayonnaise together in a bowl; add garlic, mustard and cayenne. Add crabmeat, peppers and green onion. Add ¾ cup dry bread crumbs to crab mixture. If too moist, add more bread crumbs. Use a #40 scoop to portion mixture into a ring to shape. Cover and refrigerate. To cook, brown in a little olive oil over medium heat, turning to brown on both sides. Finish in a 350 degree oven for 5 to 10 minutes. Makes 12.
Source: Chef Jackie Shen. First prepared in 1996
JALAPENO CREMA
1 small clove garlic, peeled, halved and any core removed
1 large jalapeno pepper, seeded, coarsely chopped
¼ cup fresh parsley leaves
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons white vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
In a blender, with motor running, drop garlic through opening in lid to chop finely. Repeat with the jalapeno. Add parsley, cilantro, oil, vinegar and salt. Cover and blend until smooth. In a bowl, combine sour cream and mayonnaise. Whisk in jalapeno mixture until fully incorporated. Cover and chill to blend flavors. Makes 1 cup.
