For a window shopping experience unlike any other in Paris, take a walk on rue Lepic in Montmartre. Since its earliest days, this street has provided our neighborhood with meats, cheese, fish and produce from colorful open-air stalls. Today, many additional retailers and restaurants vie for a piece of the action. Lokking for train tickets to Nice? a box of Belgian chocolate? a vintage Moulin Rouge poster? a simple waste basket? A trip to Costco could never be this much fun.
Why would I shop on rue Lepic when there's a perfectly good market street closer to our apartment? Simple. I love the fresh fish at poissonerie Pepone. You can hardly miss it. Look for a bright blue awning at the corner where rue Lepic meets rue des Abbesses. Feast your eyes on two long counters loaded with impeccable seafood.
When I''m not in the mood to cook, George and I walk over the butte to dine on the seafood specialties at one of several Lepic neighborhood restaurants. There's the small Pepone Restaurant, owned by the same Italian family as the poissonerie, down rue Lepic near Blvd de Clichy. It's a modest place that advertises pizza and pasta in the front window. Seating is limited to a few tables on one side of a long, narrow room; a long deli case with carry-away Italian specialties dominates the other. The staff makes this arrangement work by creating a personable atmosphere. We ate large, tasty portions of linguine topped with fruits de mer and could only look longingly at plates of luscious, house-made tiramisu on their way to other tables. We know to save some space next time.
One would never guess that La Mascotte, around the corner on rue des Abbesses, has been around since 1889. A recent remodelling has given the elegant art-deco interior a polished glow. Only the original zinc bar at the entrance suggests it's seniority on the street. Our spring Montmartre tour group gave high marks to La Mascotte's copious portions of succulent steamed mussels.
Looking for a special treat? La Mascotte's supply of fruits de mer from Brittany is on display next door at their open air oyster bar. We had to take advantage of their special bargain: nine oysters and a glass of Muscadet for 12 euros. For three additional euros, ask to be seated near the indoor glass waterfall away from the street. You will walk past overflowing bins of more varieties of shellfish and oysters than you thought existed.
A newcomer, Jeanne B., opened up the street on Lepic just two months ago. It has already received praise in the NYTimes for its Parisian take on the American lobster roll which it calls a Lobster Croque. My serving had tender slices of lobster laid over pesto dressing on buttery toasted pain de mie (not a gummy hot dog bun). Expressionist swirls of tomato confit vinaigrette on sandwich and plate gave this croque, normally a humble cheese sandwich, a glamorous look. Voila!
Frankly, our simple starter of steamed bulots with a garlicy green mayo was more fun to eat. In case you've not had them, a bulot is an invertebrate that is pulled from its shell and eaten like an escargot. There's a bit of a struggle involved that adds a feeling of accomplishment to one's satisfaction If you're wondering what a chewy bulot tastes like, they're known on the street as the potato of the sea.
Yet another outstanding taste treat was Jeanne's extremely green pistachio financier, a moist, dense cake loaded with nutty flavor. Our last impression of the restaurant, alas, was not so good. They had padded our bill. When shown the errors, they quickly fixed it. We'll try it again once they have gotten their 'sea legs'.
