A trip to the grocery has turned into a nerve-wracking adventure during this pandemic. My gloved hands grow sweaty as I wander one-way aisles looking for the reassuring necessities of my solitary life. Which staple will be missing because of the caronavirus? Panic buying of toilet paper was followed by a run on yeast and flour for baking. An imminent shortage of steaks and chops has carnivores on edge.
I finally stop and breathe a sigh of relief at the fish counter. Small jet black mussels resting half-hidden in shaved ice await shoppers who value their sweet succulent flavor that conjures up the scent of coastal waters where they thrive. These tasty bi-valves are sustainably farmed in inlets of Prince Edward Island and shipped throughout the States. One serving delivers a hefty amount of protein (18 gr.), iron and B12 for a modest price. Talk about fresh, unlike everything else in the grocery, mussels are alive!
A well-trained salesperson bags mussels sorting out those with shells that are broken, empty or won’t close when gently pressed. Each purchase receives a hand shovel of ice and a few pokes with a knife to allow air into the plastic bag. Mussels will survive for a few days in your refrigerator but are best when cooked on the day of purchase. Rinse them under cold tap water, cull any whose shells remain ajar after a tap on the kitchen counter, and trim off an occasional ropey bit with scissors. (Mussels grow a ‘beard’ to anchor themselves to a boat, rock or rope.)
It takes about 5 minutes for mussels to steam open in a shallow bath with water, wine, chopped onions and thyme. You can stop there, turn the contents of the pot onto a serving platter and sit down to eat with a crusty baguette and a glass of icy Muscadet. Steamed mussels (Moules à la Marinière) is considered a simple, satisfying feast in France. They are easily separated from their shell with a fork and the cooking juices at the bottom sopped up with bread.
A motivated cook can take turn steamed mussels into soup in another 10 minutes with amazing results. Remove the mussels from their shells, reunite them the strained cooking liquid and some heavy cream. Voila! The resulting soup is worthy of a Michelin star. OK, I left out some details, but not many.
I imagine this wonderful soup has roots going back to a simple kitchen in Brittany. It acquired its odd name and a backstory in the 1890's when chefs would flatter celebrities by naming their signature dishes after them. In this case, Billi Bi was the nickname of the wealthy American financier, William B. Leeds, who dined often at Maxim’s in Paris and was a great fan of their signature cream of mussel soup.
BILLI BI
Yield for 2 servings (double/triple as needed)
1 pounds mussels
1/3 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup cool water, more later as needed
1/2 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed with skin left on
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped (1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup each diced shallots, carrots and celery
1 teaspoon arrowroot or potato starch dissolved in 2 tablespoons water
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoons minced chives
Rinse the mussels in cold water; discard any with broken shells or that gape open when pressed close. Trim off "beard" attachments. Place them all in a large non-reactive saucepan along with the wine, water, onion, thyme and pepper. Bring liquid to a boil, cover and cook tossing and shaking the mussels to splash juices over the shells. After 5-6 minutes, after all the shells have opened, drain the pot into a colander over a saucepan. When the mussels are cool enough to handle, remove them from the shells. Reserve the mussels and discard the shells.
Melt butter in a 4 quart saucepan. Cook the shallot, carrot and celery pieces over medium low heat until they soften. Strain mussel cooking liquid and add water to measure 1 cup. Return the broth to the vegetables, add the cream and bring to a simmer. Add the starch mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste. Ladle the soup into bowls, distribute the mussels among the servings, garnish with chives and serve.
