In willful defiance of orders to shelter-in-place, my garden herbs are bolding making an appearance in my garden. The early arrivals, pictured above are, from left to right, chives, sorrel, tarragon, mint and chervil. My face mask is an added touch of irony. I purchased it in December as a precaution before a visit New Delhi little suspecting it would become required outerwear in Chicago three months later. (I plan to repurpose it for my Darth Vader costume this Halloween.)
The first shoots of perennial herbs in April never fails to brighten my mood and refresh my cooking. This year’s bonus is a small clump of chervil. It’s a delicate bi-annual whose lacy leaves and mild anise scent have made it the garnish of choice for French chefs. My cluster of chervil plants are offspring from last summer’s plant that, against all odds, lived through the midwestern winter snuggled up next to an asphalt driveway. The watchword of our guide in India comes to mind, “Expect the unexpected!”
These tender seasonings are destined to lend the nuanced aroma of Spring to an Asparagus Gratin at our family’s Easter dinner. A little culinary savoir faire is required to retain their scent through the cooking process. Herb leaves and stems hold a limited amount of essential oil which is driven off in the cooking process unless they are added near the end or applied as a garnish. This gratin recipe employs a clever French alternative.
Finely minced herbs are blended into soft, unsalted butter and allowed to marinate to allow the oils from the herbs to migrate into the butter. The flavored butter is incorporated into a quick sauce, first by preparing a roux and then by stirring in asparagus broth. Blanching the asparagus in water before baking assures the texture of the gratin and minimizes the time it spends in the oven.
The most succulent asparagus stalks are fat as a finger with the firm, closed tips. (Plump asparagus is the norm in France but the exception here for reasons I do not understand.) The principle difference between thick and thin is texture. The skinny asparagus is surprisingly fibrous and too thin to peel. Thicker, peeled asparagus cut in 1/2” slices is preferred if you want to serve this gratin in wedges rather than spooning it out.
ASPARAGUS GRATIN
Ingredients for 4-6 servings:
1/4 cup fresh herbs of your choice: parsley, dill, chives, rosemary, tarragon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
1 quart water
1 pound asparagus spears
2 1/2 tablespoons unbleached flour
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 large egg yolk
Garnish: 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Generously butter the bottom and sides of an 8” gratin dish.
Herb butter: Finely mince herb leaves and tender stems. Blend them with the softened butter, preferably the day before making the gratin.
Asparagus: Bring the water to a simmer in a deep skillet or 4 qt. saucepan. Break off and discard the tough ends of the stalks. Peel the stalks as needed. Trim off and reserve the asparagus tips. Cut the remaining stalks into 1/2” pieces and reserve separately.
Blanch the asparagus tips in the boiling water until just tender. Remove them with a slotted spoon or strainer and submerge them in ice water briefly to stop the cooking process. Drain and reserve. Add the stem pieces to the water, boil until tender, cool in ice water, drain, pat dry and lay them in the bottom of the prepared dish Continue boiling the cooking water until it reduces to 3/4 cup. Reserve.
Sauce: Melt the herb butter in a saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook for two minutes stirring steadily. Pour in the hot asparagus broth and whisk until the sauce is smooth and homogenous. Off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Whisk in the egg yolk. Spoon the sauce evenly over the asparagus spears. Lay the asparagus tips over the sauce in a decorative pattern. Bake for until set, 15-20 minutes.
Garnish: Just before serving, preheat the broiler and sprinkle the cheese over the surface of the gratin,. Place the dish 4” from the flame until lightly browned. Serve immediately.
