The small corner of northern Paris we know best seems to be immune from the recession. While France, in general, struggles with slow business growth and high unemployment, a steady stream of new businesses keep appearing near the bottom of the butte behind the Bascilica of Sacre Coeur. True, some changes are cosmetic - here it's decorating, there, a store moves to a bigger space. Reasonable start-up costs and a stable local population continue to make Montmartre an attractive area to open such modest businesses as a second-hand book store, an art gallery or custom jewelry workshop.
To our delight, start-up food businesses outnumber the other enterprises in this local business spurt. In just the three months time we were gone over the summer, a new mini food market, a bakery, a wine bar and a cafe/restaurant have opened. All four are no more than a five minute walk from our front door. The last two just happen to be only a half-block south from us.
Le Sarment (a great word which means grape tendril) at the corner on rue Marcadet and rue du Mont Cenis simply acquired new owners. . Previous management let the place become abit dilapidated; the interior space appeared opaque despite large windows to the street and its outdoor tables were rarely occupied. A review on Trip Advisor noted a grouchy owner with a cycling obsession. Last spring, painted signs in the windows announced said owner's retirement. Then the place really went dark.
A brand new Le Sarment that greeted us in August. It’s a bright, transparent and lively restaurant space and its outdoor seating was filled even on cool September days. On a recent evening, I ordered a confit of duck wrapped in phyllo that was served with fresh salad and a moderately priced glass of red wine from southwestern France. Both were most satisfying. Le Sarment is able to shave five Euros off the price of a comparable meal we could have ordered at Cafe Francoeur up the street by scaling the dish to a smaller plate. Let me add, the confit and the small serving of cheesecake George and I shared for dessert were more than satisfying (made off premises by an American!). This is also the kind of local place where even the guests' dogs are interesting.
Directly across the street from Le Sarment, in a space previously held by a low-energy realty office, is a a new wine bar called Comestibles. The name refers to the grocery-like atmosphere of carefully stacked canned and bottled gourmet foods sold 'to go' or served heated and attractively served on premise, with a glass of wine, of course. This clever combination of quality ingredients, tastefully embellishment in an attractive setting at a moderate price is the kind of informal dining Parisians of all ages seem to enjoy.
We've sat outside late one afternoon with a glass of wine, a platter of excellent sliced meats and good bread, watching the neighbors walk home from work or out for the evening. More recently at lunch, I ordered a delisious sandwich of stewed figs and sliced smoked duck breast, served warm, topped with mustard sprouts and accompanied by a green salad generouly sprinkled with hazelnuts and walnuts. As at Le Sarment, you can expand your wine knowledge here without spending a fortune by ordering from the extensive list of by the glass wines.
What's going on at the other two corners of this intersection? More than you would guess. I'm not referring to the southeast corner which has been occupied by a tutoring service for as long as we've lived on rue du Mont Cenis. It's the tourelle on the southwest corner, built in the 15th century as a dovecote that has historical landmark status. The intersection itself was the site of le hameau de Clignancourt, a feudal hamlet in the sixteenth century, with roots in medieval times. In the late 18th century, the tourelle was a warehouse for a fine porcelain enterprise with offices up the street on rue du Mont Cenis. The building had become a hotel and restaurant in the early 20th century when Maurice Utrillo made it the subject of several paintings.
Today, this property is the home of Chateau de Lys, a self-described club and restaurant for libertines. (Look it up yourself. ) Are you surprised at this mix of venues at this intersection? What can I say? This is Montmartre.
Il s'appelle Bert.
Il s’appelle, Bert
