I must have been a forager in a previous lifetime. Why else do I reach for a bundle of dark, crinkled kale leaves in the grocery? Its cousin, that smooth, glossy head of cabbage, is a more obvious choice for soups and stews.
It must be its toughness - kale look like a survivor from an ancient world. And it is. Plants with leaves resembling worn or singed animal hides were peasant food centuries before the Christian era. But why should we eat this primitive fare today? Because of its stellar health benefits.
Kale is rich in beta-carotene, calcium and vitamins K and C. Kale also contains DNA-repairing and cancer-fighting properties. But there's just one catch. If you want all its food value, you'd best eat it raw in a salad. This needn’t be as gourmet as the baby kale salad I ordered recently at Chicago’s Spiaggia Cafe. It was garnished with pomegranate seeds, artisan goat cheese, pumpkin seeds and apples and was dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette. But you get the idea.
SPICY KALE AND SWEET POTATO SALAD
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What is the best way to cook kale? Auguste Escoffier’s century-old recipes that call for either parboiling or stewing kale leaves in butter destroy much of its nutritonal value . I prefer to prepare a side dish of kale using Alice Water's technique of gently braising torn, damp leaves with a little oil and garlic.
SAUTEED KALE
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Who knew kale’s leathery leaves would make it a terrific snack food? Drying has the effect of concentrating their earthy, mineral taste. I’m happy to pass on Jacques Pepin’s recipe for dried kale. He simply salts lightly torn leaves and allows them to dry in a slow oven. (I caution you not to leave a plate of kale chips alone with someone - like my husband - if you expect to find any left when you return.)
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I also have fallen into a habit commonly prescribed in Portugese and Italian cuisines of spontaneously stirring kale leaves into soup, stew and pasta sauce. It's a practice that feels timeless.
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