Long regarded a green non grata, kale is making its debut on the upscale Paris dining scene. The tough, fringed leaves of this cabbage family member.don't lend themselves to delicate presentations. A chef who works with kale has to make a bold statement. Geoffroy Maillard did just that last week at La Table d'Eugene, the Michelin-rated bistro in our neighborhood My luncheon serving of yellowfin tuna arrived literally blanketed by whole kale leaves.
Chef Maillard didn't stop there. He positioned two mild roasted green chilis like parentheses on top of the kale. The spiced tomato puree surrounding the generous tuna slices while fresh and tasty, was also reminiscent of - dare I say it - ketchup! In the past, I've had to "Google" the exotic produce on Chef Maillard's menu before bringing my clients. These ingredients were a no-brainer.
Kale is quite likely a new addition to Chef Maillard's repertoire. Why else would the waitress set my table with a fish knife? There was no way I could have cut through kale's firm center rib with it. After I requested a regular table knife, she set every other serving with one as well. Diners around me all ate the chewy leaves and wiped up the sauce with pieces of freshly baked house rolls.
If kale makes a comeback in France, credit will be given to the passionate efforts of an American, Kristen Beddard. In the last two years, she has made it her mission to raise consumers' awareness of kale's nutritional virtues and encouraged French farmers to grow it. You can find out more about her plans by visiting the website: The Kale Project.
