When I promised you an alphabet of easy French sauces, I was thinking eggs, milk, butter, olive oil. Anything but vegetables. That was last January. It’s July, my refrigerator is bulging with produce and a vegetable sauce now seems like the perfect complement to a summer meal.
For the letter “F” I’ve chosen the voluptuous bulb fennel - for its looks, its toothsome texture and its mild, sweet flavor. It shares the same essential oil as the herb anise, whose concentrated aroma has proven to be addictive in many Mediterranean liqueurs for a least four millennia. There’s also a hint of new-mown hay and a slightly piney scent in fennel that delivers is a refreshingly nuanced finish to fish and pork dishes.
What makes my Fennel Sauce so doable? It cooks right alongside the main ingredient! A little Canola oil coats the leaves before roasting and a little wine goes into the pan the pan mid-way through the cooking process. That’s all there is to it.
The residue of fennel, wine and meat juices in the roasting pan, does not make this sauce a "pan gravy". Very little fat accumulates from the cooking of filet of fish or pork roast, and there’s no need to stir in flour to thicken the juices. In fact, a puree of the cooked fennel leaves produces a rather thick sauce. You may want to add a little wine, milk or cream to thin it to the desired consistency.
The French term for this kind of sauce is 'intrinsic'. I rely on its directness and natural intensity, not to mention it’s ease of preparation, to add a touch of elegance to a simple dinner .
But what about the fennel stems and frond-like leaves left on the cutting board? Don't throw them out! The feathery greens near the head of the bulb make a fragrant garnish with an intriguing ‘mouth feel’. If you’re in the habit of grilling outdoors, do as the French do with the tough hollow fennel stems: dry them and thrust them into the fire under grilled fish at the last minute for a smoky anise-scented finish.
FENNEL SAUCE FOR SALMON FILETS OR PORK TENDERLOIN
Ingredients for 4 servings:
1 large bulb fennel
2 tablespoons Canola oil
1 pound salmon filet or pork tenderloin
1/2 cup dry white wine
Additional: wine or milk, to taste
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove the salmon or pork tenderloin from the refrigerator.
Trim the fennel down to the bulb reserving the stems and fronds. Quarter the bulb vertically, and cut the leaves from the center core and coarsely chop them. Place them in a heavy casserole, toss with oil to coat the leaves. Cover the pan and roast for 25 minutes.
Dry and lightly season the salmon or pork with salt and pepper. Remove the casserole, spread the fennel to the sides of the pan and center the fish or meat in the bottom. Pour in the wine, cover and cook another 20 minutes. Remove the pan and check the salmon to see if the white collagen beads have risen to the surface or, in the case of pork, if the meat has reached 150 degrees. If not, return to the oven for another 5 minutes. Otherwise, remove them, cover the pan and return it to the oven. Let the fish or meat rest, covered lightly with foil for 10 minutes.
Remove and puree the fennel pieces and pan juices with an immersion blender or in a processor. Thin to a pouring consistency with wine or milk. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve salmon pieces or pork slices over spoonfuls of Fennel Sauce and garnish with minced fennel leaves.
