George and I spent a totally relaxing two days with our friends at Chateau de Sannat in the Limousin over the weekend. Yes, our hosts were a count and countess, but the resemblance to Downton Abbey ends there. The disarmingly warm and generous hospitality of owners Claude and Jacques de Ste. Croix belies the aristocratic bearing of the registered landmark with its formal gardens and many outbuildings.
Adding to the informal feel of this cool rainy weekend in the country was the presence of the Ste. Croix's oldest son Marc and four young grandchildren. As you might expect, guests and family were often together in the chateau's spacious kitchen.
Some readers will remember having cooked with me in this same kitchen during the decade or so that we took culinary tours to Sannat. The space has since been remodeled, and a spacious island now runs the length of the room. But the taxi-yellow professional gas range, now tucked under the eves of the original fireplace, provides all the fire power. As we ate lunch with eleven of us around the large kitchen table, the sound of lively conversations simultaneously in French and English brought back wonderful memories.
As you've probably guessed, I found it hard to remain a full time guest. The kitchen drew me back, and the Ste. Croixs cleverly found ways for me to contribute to the menus they had planned.
After breakfast on Saturday morning, Jacques brought out half a young lamb: with rib meat and filet still attached. (It's not a cut we're likely to see in a US meat case.) Marc partially boned it, lifting the meat off the spine for easy carving. My job was to scatter a thin layer of thyme, rosemary, parsley from Claude's garden plus some sea salt on the exposed bones. I then placed the meat on the bone, tied it in place and roast it at a high temperature until the meat reached 130 degrees F. This technique gives the succulent sliced steak and rib meat a delicate aroma of spring greens. The lamb was served with flageolot beans heated with diced tomatoes and finished with thin slices of fresh mint. The white asparagus salad pictured above, dressed with a vinaigrette of both walnut oil and walnut vinegar. To give this starter course eye appeal, I garnished the platter with lettuce, chopped fresh walnuts and minced chives.
That evening Jacques shared his passion for la chasse by preparing a special filet of young venison. After giving it a quick saute, he placed it in a roasting pan, spread thick onion slices on top and a sprinkled on layer of ground speculos (Dutch spice cookies). After the meat,was roasted (130 degrees), a mixure of balsamic vinegar and brown sugar was added to meat juices to make a spicy tangy sauce. The result was hugely delicious.
Claude had made a mixture of diced apple, kiwi, banana and orange and asked me to come up with a seasonal twist. I quickly made mint syrup and roasted a cup of whole almonds. I stirred just enough syrup into the fruit to make the mint flavor discernible and squeezed on the juice of a half lemon to cut the added sweetness. The almonds, fragrant from roasting and coarsely chopped were added to the fruit just before serving so they wouldn't loose their crunch.
The Ste Croixs have somewhat retired from their four-star bed and breakfast business; however the western side of Chateau de Sannat is available as a weekly self-catered rental for a family or small reunion group. This half includes four bedrooms, a salon, formal dining room and kitchen along with direct access to the swimming pool and the chateau's park. For more information visit: http://www.chateausannat.com/index.html Bring your friends. It’s well worth the trip.
