There's good news for budget-conscious Paris diners this fall. A lunch of gastronomic quality can be had for $25 per person. It's an amazing feat once you consider that each meal comes burdened with France's weighty 19,6% consumption tax plus the 18% gratuity on top of that. Just how do they do it? You guessed it - there are fewer choices. But, believe me, you don't go away hungry.
In Montmartre the bistros all set out a chalkboard easel in late morning announcing the day's formule (prix fixe) menu. The day we stopped by La Miroir on rue des Martyrs, the choice was either the roast filet of rouget pictured above (similar to our red snapper) or a chicken ballotine (boned, stuffed, rolled and poached) with a glass of wine. A cafe gourmand was also included. Our coffee arrived on a large plate surrounded by dessert servings so small you're convinced they have no calories. It's dessert in disguise. The bill came to 38 euros for the two of us (about $50).
Take note: a special formule isn't always available. We arrived at Cafe Poulbot on rue Lamarck one Saturday afternoon to find that the unusually good price of 16 1/2 euros for two courses was only offered on weekdays. So we each ordered one plate from the a la carte menu. The chef obligingly sent out a complimentary plate of house pate as we waited patiently for George's snail and artichoke risotto to arrive (photo at the top of the article). It was worth the wait!
The confit of lamb I ordered was the entire shoulder of a young animal. The quality of the meat, the skill with which it was prepare and its flavor was exceptional. I couldn't remember tasting one as good. The rich meat preparation was paired with a simple side of braised eggplaant and tomato of equally concentrated flavor. That meal cost close to $70 for two, including one glass of wine and two coffees. We left fully satisfied and ready for an afternoon of sightseeing.
Cafe Poulbot is under new management. It was purchased last year by a young chef from Florence who spent a decade apprenticing in several Paris kitchens. He is continuing serving the rustic dishes of his predecessor who was raised on a farm in the Correze (Limousin) and gradually introducing his own personal style.
We take the TGV to Avignon on Wednesday. I will keep you posted on the dining scene in St Remy over the next two weeks.
