We’re on the road to St Remy on a bright October morning. Towering plane trees shelter us from brilliant ’van Gogh’-blue skies while cool breezes ease the effects of a hot sun. This is Indian summer in Provence. We can’t believe our good fortune.
George is at the wheel of the largest rental car we could find. This impeccable white van comfortably seats nine and will be easy to spot in a parking lot. It will carry eight of us on a 'Provence Odyssey' to ancient Roman sites, colorful market towns and back to dinner al fresco in St Remy.
The golden glow from the sunset behind the Arles arena captures the spirit of Roman life still evident in Provence. Excellent documentation at the sites we visit connect visitors with daily life in ancient Gaul. A gem of a museum at the Pont du Gard describes how this amazing aquaduct was constructed. And the audioguide at the arena in Nimes examines its evolution from a cruel circus of combat and martyrdom to an unassuming army barracks.
These monuments made me wonder - How does modern France really feel about this ancient occupation? Look no further than an cartoon icon, Asterix. He's not just a squeaky-voiced animated character, Asterix is a symbol of French exceptionalism. With the help of his tubby buddy Obelisk and dog Idefix, diminuative Asterix always outsmarts Julius Caesar’s troups and manages to save the last bit of of Gaul from Roman rule.
Our white van then takes us south to Les Baux where we purchase CastelaS olive oil and visit with owner Jean-Benoit Hugues. He is quite passionate about this family’s ten-year-old business and proud of the facility he's designed whose product wins competative tastings every year.Jean-Benoit was raised near Les Baux but its the experience he gained in the States as an electronics engineer that honed his entrepreneurial nature. When we ask him if he misses the high-tech world, he reflects on its current financial instability. Developing an olive oil business that will survive him is, he says, just as dynamic and demanding a business as making semi-conductors for Motorola was two decades ago. We believe him.
Shopping in the St. Remy market is harder than it looks. There are so many olives that would make a tasty stuffing for roast leg of lamb once you decided on a vendor,. There are several and each has a mouthwatering display. My deep panier basket will be filled with vegetables for ratatouille and plums for clafouti (pictured below) before I’m finished
Finally, seven of us gather around the island in Le Tuilerie kitchen for cooking class later in the day. (The chauffeur takes a break.) Each couple prepares a recipe as the rest of us look on and assist as needed. Our seasonal menus consist of uncomplicated recipes made with a few great ingredients and a moderate amount of preparation. We always make time for a glass of wine at the end of class while George lights the candles for the table outdoors.
Our last morning in Provence is spent in a kitchen. But it’s the enchanting restored 18th century kitchen in the five star La Mirande Hotel in Avignon. We’ve accompanied Chef Francois to the market where we purchased baby monk fish, pintade (domestic guinea fowl) and pears for our meal. The next hour and a half is spent working at stations around a large communal table in front of the wood-burning fireplace. There’s a lot of peeling, cleaning, chopping and sauteeing under the Chef's watchful eye. He then takes over at the range, and we retire to the cellar with school director Severine for a glass of wine.
Chef Francois and Severine will soon join us for a delicious lunch at the kitchen table which has been cleared in our absence and set with attractive modern tableware. After coffee in the hotel’s lobby we’re off with a private guide to tour the Palais des Papes.
We hope you will join us on next year's Provence Odyssey! More information soon.
