I blame my Protestant family for sheltering me from all the rich, spicy flavors of Mardi Gras cooking. We were midwestern, corn-fed innocents: no Carnival parties; no Lenten fasts. But moderation has its limitations.
Meals at our house rarely exceeded 2,000 units on the Scoville Hot Pepper Scale. That’s the heat level in an overly-endowed Anaheim pepper; lower than a jalapeno. FYI: The Scoville Hot Pepper Scale relies on a test. Capsaicin, the hot compound, is extracted from dried peppers. A peppers rating depends on how many drops of its capsaicin are needed to be discernible to testers when added to a sugar solution. This is not rocket science.
Are your taste buds primed for Mardi Gras? If you enjoy seasoning with cayenne pepper, for example, your tolerance level is at 30,000 Scoville units. Habanero peppers start at 200,000 - perhaps a dash or two from a bottle will do. (Keep the bottle away from children.) Then there’s non-culinary “Law Enforcement Grade” pepper spray with Scoville rating of 5,000,000. But I digress.
So, where do we learn what our parents failed to teach us? From our friends, of course. George and I have relied on Jane and Earl, both New Orleans natives, to introduce us to their city’s cooking After all, Mardi Gras is synonymous with the cuisine of New Orleans. It’s the only place where folks can celebrate Mardi Gras every night of the year.
This year I’ll be sharing my recipe for Grillades and Grits in classes at home and at the Alliance Francaise in Chicago. Jane tells me this is the centerpiece dish of the Sunday Sinners Brunch they attend every year. Let me tell you how much fun it is to prepare.
First I sear serving-size pieces of round steak in hot oil. Then I add more oil along with flour to make a roux in the skillet. The next move is my favorite: I add diced onions, celery, green pepper and garlic all at once. The scent is divine. It’s no wonder onions, peppers and celery are called the ‘holy trinity’ of NO cooking.
Once these wilt, I sprinkle on fresh thyme, and pour in tomatoes and wine. The meat goes back into the pan along with Tabasco and Worchestershire Sauce, to taste. Then the braise begins and mouth-watering smells of a winter carnival feast fill the air.
I put on some jazz to keep me company as I cook – and let the good times roll!
GRILLADES AND GRITS
Ingredients for 12 servings:
4 pounds round steak (1/4" thick)
1/2 cup bacon drippings or vegetable oil
2 cups thinly sliced green onions
3/4 cup celery, diced
1-1/2 cups green bell peppers, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups canned plum tomatoes, diced
1/2 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
(1/2 teaspoon dried)
1 cup water
1 cup red wine
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
Directions:
- Trim fat and bone from the meat. Cut each slice into single serving portions. In a heavy skillet heat 2 tablespoons fat and brown the meat on both sides and reserve.
- Add the remaining fat and the flour. Cook the flour over medium low heat until it darkens to rich brown. Add the onions, green onions, celery, green pepper, and garlic, and saute until wilted. Add the tomatoes, thyme and cook 3 minutes more. Add the wine and water and stir until the mixture is completely mixed.
- Return the meat to the pan along with the salt, pepper, bay leaves, Tabasco and Worchestershire. Lower the heat, partially cover, and simmer 1 1/2 hours or until the meat is tender. Remove the bay leaves and stir in the parsley.
*Grits Tip: Add the grits slowly to boiling water. Stir while they thicken. Take them off the heat while they are thickened but soft.
