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You don’t need to feel sorry for yourself  when dining alone in Montmartre.  Let me tell you about one restaurant where I can eat alone and still feel I’m among friends.  You have to admit that beats eating a take-out sandwich.

Au Relais is a small bistro located two blocks south of our apartment.  In this part of Paris, south means walking up a steep grade toward the Bascilica of Sacre Coeur.  Au Relais is not hard to find, but it requires a little effort to get there.  In fact, its name suits its location perfectly.

 

Originally a relais was a rest-stop on the road.  A place where one could change horses or trade tired dogs for fresh ones during the hunt.   This particular relais on rue Lamarck has been a refueling stop for Montmartois, as the locals call themselves, since 1904.  The secret to longevity?   Simple, inexpensive food and swift, friendly service.  I’m not the only one who feels instantly at ease. Au Relais is packed at mealtime.

Inside, the tables are spaced only six inches apart. Even   after the waiter pulls one forward to let you in, there’s a tense moment when you slide sideways between them to sit against the wall.  (Don’t try this if you are super-sized.)  Once seated, you can either  ignore your neighbors or greet them with ‘bonjour’.  (The corollary to this is to say ‘au revoir’ as you rise to leave.   These are basic French restaurant manners.)

Sometimes conversation with those sitting so close is just too tempting to resist.  Yesterday, I found myself listening as two travelers from Manhattan gave me a run-down of  their busy week in Paris. (I did ask.) Later  I traded compliments with a French woman seated on the other side, after we discovered we were wearing the same designer scarf

From my banquette seat I had a view of the whole room.  I could watch for traffic at the front door, the conversations around the room, and the tall young man working at top speed behind the bar.  My parting move was a risky one.  I pulled out my camera and started to record everything I was witnessing.  Did anyone care?  Not a bit.  Not one paid any attention!   I’m continuously amazed by how easy it is to be ‘at home’ in Montmartre.