In Paris vegetable and fruit market stalls are everywhere. Their colorful displays used to be so tempting. Now, not so much. After I took an early morning tour of Rungis, the city's enormous central market, it dawned on me that ingredients grown and delivered on this scale were not the same fruits and vegetables that make French cuisine great. Where could I find them?
I didn't have to look far. The French actually go to some trouble to protect the high quality of their food ingedients with labels that certify when, where and how a particular product is grown. The concept is a century old, and was codified as law than 50 years ago. Protection of wine and cheese products is administered by AOC, Appelation d’Origine Controlle. The Blason Rouge, the red label on meats and poultry insures that the animal has been raised and slaughtered according to specific standards. More recently, fruits and vegetables grown naturally, without chemicals and OGM ( genetically modified seed) bear the insignia AB for Agriculture Biologique.
Organic produce still accounts for only 2% of total production, just as in the States. Distribution is spotty. But fortunately, there are two small weekend organic street markets in Paris: one on Saturday morning on rue Battignoles (17th arrond.) the other on Sunday along rue Raspail in the (7th). The same vendors attend both.
My husband claims I would drive to Giverny (an hour away) to find the perfect egg. ( I’m sure this isn’t a compliment.) Truth is, I would drive even further than Giverny for the satisfaction of knowing exactly where my food comes from. Now, thanks to the Internet, my goal is within walking distance.
I have begun shopping online for produce that is delivered in my neighborhood once a week. These fruits and vegetables carry the AB label. I placed my first order last week.
The pick-up point for this first bag was a local wine shop. Small businesses like the one picturred above are delivery points for Bio Paniers, organic baskets, throughout Paris. (Yes, we did purchase a bottle of Chardonnay from the proprietor.) The contents of my basket, pictured above, cost 20 Euros and are intended for two persons for a week.
A flyer stapled to the sack listed the source of each item. Aside from the Italian artichoke, Spanish oranges and avocado (both EU members) and two bananas from the Dominican Republic (former French colony) every item was identified by its regional origin in France.
Coming next: The fate of the fruits and veggies in the bio panier. Comparison with a competing organic produce seller.
